Although I missed family and friends at home, spending the Christmas season away from the US was interesting. I wondered how, or whether, a predominately Muslim country would acknowledge the day. The answer, in hindsight, was obvious.
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Cathedral in Korca on Christmas Eve |
Albanian Christians (mostly Greek Orthodox), mark the day as most Christian families do, with a special family meal. Those who are observant might also acknowledge the religious aspects of the holiday at church, many attending midnight mass.
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St. Nick takes a break from his toils |
The non-Christians pretty much ignore the religious part of the holiday and embrace the secular aspects. The shops and streets of Tirana are decked out in Santa Claus displays, scenes of winter wonderlands, and blinking colored lights. In the main square, next to the statute of Albania's national hero Skanderberg, sits a giant fake evergreen tree decorated with lights.
In short, Christmas unfolded pretty much the way I would expect in a country known for its religious tolerance - everyone did as their beliefs dictated and no one begrudged the others. This live-and-let-live attitude concerning religious practice and belief is, I feel, one of the greatest things about the Albanian worldview.
After so many years of state-sponsored religious persecution, the Albanian people truly understand the importance of separating church and state. People are happy to practice their own religion privately and happy to let others do the same.
Over Christmas weekend, Thomas and I visited the town of Korca. Korca sits at some elevation, so is colder than Tirana. The week before we arrived, it had snowed. It was nice to see the white snow, although I did get cold. Only two months here and already I'm losing my cold tolerance!
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14th century church |
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Typical Korca streetscape |
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Note bunkers in background |
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La Montagne restaurant |
At one time, Korca was known as the Paris of Albania. We were charmed by its old stone buildings, including several churches. We also stopped by the brewery where they produce a couple of decent styles of of beer. We had a couple of exceptional meals, including lunch at La Montagne restaurant located outside of town at the top of a hairpin road in the direction of Mborja. In short, a lovely weekend and a white Christmas after all.
Gazuar!
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Small chapel at La Montagne |
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Fish from nearby Lake Ohrid |
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Birra Korca delivery truck |
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